Joe Rogan Experience #977 — Jeff Evans & Bud Brutsman Transcript

Transcript

0:00 You can go right out your door and be in the most awesome hiking spot ever. little carnival with our kids like gotta get this guy on gotta talk to him so no pressure yeah your take a look around take a look around take a look around was it instinctual or were you just Yeah. 277 miles. but I'm like about someone risking then you make and when he dies,

2:37 You know, remember, Because on the outside, But not as hard. They're taking the biggest risk and then allowing, you know, Yeah. Okay, so the ropes are there before you get there. There's no way to mitigate all of that. and they don't know how to work a jumar. learned like we're going to learn we're going to they've never had crampons before we we had to

6:14 And so it's changed. Right. I don't think she summ did. Did she summit? It's like there's two ways to look at it. out and i know we can buddy breathe but let's pretend there's no buddy breathing and you're Your body is eating itself. Get down to camp four and look around. Or, holy shit, she's alive. We got to go. took two Sherpas and then two more in the middle of the night.

9:34 Oh God. hours if you're in shape so take me out of that because i'm not a runner yeah but i'm not doing But the terrain dictates that she has to be, unless she's falling off the side, she's on a spine, basically. But I get the sense that she just said, I'm done. So the oxygen up there is 33% less than what's here at sea level. So she sat down. for some you know potentially dead person in the death zone.

12:01 The fluid in your body starts to go to places it's not supposed to go 8,000 meters that is that so see they see that last dot before the summit that's She was 500 feet from the top? Like Everest was like where your car's parked. and a 6,000 foot drop into Nepal to the left. Either way, it would hurt pretty fucking bad. It's as wide,000-foot drop into Tibet to the right and a 6,000-foot drop into Nepal to the left.

13:42 This is it right here? we were up there in 2000 the year before the fall before there was a british guy i can't remember gets up there we're gonna have to scoot around uh this fellow you know whoa so he's just stuck on I was at base camp. On the north side in Tibet. That's so weird. and they said, The controversy is that they summited first, but they can't prove it.

16:26 You know, I ain't going to lie to you. How many of the 200 and plus bodies have you seen up there? Ah, I made it. Well, I think the average is, you know, nowadays is usually, I think, somewhere under 10, you know, between 6 and 10 every season. They're higher in concentration. they lose their only source of income when these guys get killed. This is the altitude.

18:39 Okay, all right. So then they hear music. Like Rihanna or some shit. You're going to disparage her. Yeah, no. We need to go. And then they put oxygen down her, crank up the bottle, try to get some blood flowing, get stuff going. They sit up there at 8,000 feet, 35 minutes, 45 minutes. so her decision making was in the hard and sort of lowering her down. And that, that's how they got her down. You know, she, she quit

21:02 cold and then your core temperature drops low enough to where euphoria comes in. Right before they die. And then we start rewarming their frostbite. we're we're trying to talk to them they get her down to camp four which is that track that you These guys are working their asses off. You know, dead weight. Andrew got there and said, I can only pick one of you.

23:44 She was pissed off that she got left. I mean, who knows? But what is he going to do? We talked about it last night. I mean, it is. People make mistakes. We had that one guy on Grace's team. It's on the internet. Got to the summit too late. I don't know the autopsy, but it was something fairly acute. selfish. There's no, you know, there's no chance. I used to climb pretty hard and then I had a kid and my sense of objective risk changed significantly at that

27:30 the everest it really wasn't his goal his goal was to help the first blind guy to summit and You know, we'll come back and we'll still be bros and maybe we'll go do some other cool shit Top of the world, Ma. And, you know, that's early. and yep you um and you you did what you went to do you're done you know you're like oh you relax And you've got to know that it's coming, and it's going to hurt.

30:25 Did you clip in because you felt like your body was getting a little wishy-washy? because not to know which way to go up but to make sure they were there for the descent On the rope. So is it the appeal of, like, That's my church. the world just died, you know, under two months ago. Really? Ula Steck. Yeah. How did he die? who's a friend of his, But his Sherpa was sick.

33:44 You have to see this guy. Unbelievable. bang, bang. It's like a video game. He's a ridiculously I don't know exact numbers, but several from different nationalities. then they want to find a more difficult route, or they do it without oxygen. Oh, my God. Now, I want to be clear, though. Oh, yeah, I did. Yeah. But the point was, like, Ulay, you know, people look at that, and they're like, whoa, dude.

37:04 Alex, super calculated. Like, he'd climbed Freerider, the route he's crazy, he's crazy. No, he's calculated. And so is Alex. Alex, super calculated. this is a very obviously very intense thing oh yeah hey man how's it going yeah it's going good But Jimmy's a very accomplished climber, and he's an amazing cinematographer. I ain't going to lie. you know

38:54 where one mess up well I just read but he's at another level, and everyone knows that. So there he is as calm and collected as he can be. on his fingerboard and he was gonna go train train and do like, you know, fingerboard workout that afternoon. He's so mellow. Like, when it goes wrong plaid short shirt like on the ledge you know leaning back and it was he reflected on that

42:15 Just need a minute. That's um, that's a thousand feet off the deck All right. he's doing. and I remember reading know I was in my I think my early 20s when when Peter did that and I remember reading about it and thinking no like what how how does one want to do and I was just really getting into climbing a lot I just couldn't it didn't compute but Peter Croft I think

44:09 Is there an optimum build for what he does? Well, the campus board or a finger, you know, or. So it strengthens all your tendons in your hands and your fingers particularly. hands in there yeah and then there's routines i use two finger pockets and three finger pockets That's why he's where he is. There was a few. look at like the amount of mushrooms that are done like in a specific location and then look at joshua tree like the high concentration i saw i know so many people go to joshua tree just just

47:25 Oh, yeah. Well, you feel like the, you see the ball track better when you're playing pool. Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah. But I'm... turn it into a Tootsie Roll appearing consistency, color. started microdosing a few months back does it every day every day microdoses and he competes Like, you can get a mental pathway that's very destructive, you know, and you can call it addictive, but it doesn't demonize washing your hands.

49:35 I assume they're seeing what I'm seeing. him right now. Let's fuck him up. it's not exaggerated I know well I don't think so Yeah. I ate a fucking gummy bear, a pot gummy bear. It's a long time until it's metabolized, right? something about it like it's cleansing I guess you're eating a gummy bear should But here's my take on it It's a little confusing.

52:24 All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. I can feel that. You develop it. All the time. Like, what's with all the shitty green pants? Everybody remembers me in my green pants. It's amazing. Oh yeah, oh yeah. There's quite A hundred percent. He broke out of jail. the polygamy part, they're like, wait a minute.

54:42 It's, yeah. Some people just like danger. Sounds like it. It ruins more people than anything. We won't make any money. And then some other dude, Murdoch, but not Rupert Murdoch. Yeah, I don't even know where he is. There's 15,000 Axis deer, though. It's in the middle. It's the asshole Americans. You draw back on it, in the grass, So they bring in these rangers and seals, these snipers.

57:52 The meat is outstanding. as good as it gets those guys killed quite a few quite a few. But it's a great learning ground for stalking because you blow so many stalks. i mean thousands and you took a few shots yes yeah i took a few shots yeah they're tough animals too My guide, though, he knew where the wind was going. Oh, yeah. So they're not scared of anything other than people.

1:00:28 too, apparently. And Maui also has pigs. I was there with, there's a mouflon. It's not better than elk. Yeah. And the people that live there could not be nicer, could not be cooler. And I went over to my buddy's house and he has a pretty sweet spread. as you want no limit no limit they want to they mean they have a problem yeah i mean it's not a If you had a rifle, it's pretty easy.

1:02:58 Couldn't be healthier. Just, you feel the nutrition in it. They stole that shit. But I'm one of those weirdos who think there shouldn't be passports. I'm sure. 19 people died in that one, was it an avalanche that got them? Yeah. and try and help the best I can. there with these guys, NYC medics, which is a group of former New York city paramedics that

1:06:05 they're that's their ethnic tribe not sherpa but tamang they see the helicopter come in and these I got home and for a month after I got back from there, I still felt the ground shaking in Boulder, Would you be interested kooky kooky? And your job will be to lead a medical team of, we had nine of us, within 2,000 meters of the front line. And they were there ready to put the fight down.

1:09:38 I pitched it to her and I've got an 11 year old kid and, and she gave me, I think the, the least amount of pushback as anybody around me in my close network. with me at the same time saying hey are we going back to everest to go rescue so he's gonna no Yeah, yeah. Everest aired. The name of the show is Everest So you tell your wife. intense to say the least i mean it was a mind bender at the first after after the first three

1:12:11 And then the IEDs would blow these guys up, and we would get them. and patch their holes and and then send them in some cases and stabilize their extremities and patch their holes sleeping on the floor on these, you know, these Iraqi blankets, you know, percolate that shit out a little bit and let it, let it sit. So we were, conventional warfare right these guys are you know their isis is was reinforcing these these

1:15:32 is our, this is our option. You know, if we can create positive impact and we can save more lives by being closer, And we set up our clinic on a street corner covered by a corrugated metal roof multiple gunshot wound patients multiple careers that i experienced in that month of just the flow of volume of, of penetrating trauma. So then, then, uh, it was day two or three,

1:18:01 because these people had been captivated for uh in in you know and keep everybody away and we we treat a shit ton of people day four rolls around and we wake up one came in and it was 50 yards and just getting And it blew a shit ton of debris. This is a dude we'd been, you know, eating cookies with and drinking tea with like a half hour, you know, an hour before, you know, standing at the door in between, you know, ambulances.

1:21:38 again and so he started breathing and resuscitated him so he was dead and he came back to life he was he was he was unable to to We go back inside the bunker there. Because, I mean, shit's crazy. the enemy, right? Jesus. How do you decide when you're leaving? And then go back to Kansas and try to go to the grocery store. I don't know what the fuck it is.

1:25:11 And they've been a part of these things and and been affected so profoundly. Or whether it's getting I think generally the consensus is it's more technical, it's more dangerous, and it's not as commercialized, right? like you have to have very specific kind of gear too, right? It's pretty good. you know it's way way back in the first night you know my therm rest had a hole i didn't have a

1:27:13 So, yeah. The guy that came down? Yeah. he's telling everybody they risked their lives, Do you hurt? Like we were talking about earlier. This dude shows up with a Boy Scout, old school Boy Scout, like Weebelo looking fucking thing. like he's got a so it turns out he was just cold i'm telling you man like a lot of people just This is a Japanese guy?

1:29:55 I mean, these guys are so skilled and understand what those conditions make you do as a pilot. really high stressful high danger sort of situations you're constantly around people a piece of shit. I'm so grateful that I was born by a random stroke of luck, you know, in Roanoke, Virginia, And with regards to the people that I work with, I tend to, I think, gravitate towards people who,

1:33:38 And when things go crazy, how do you handle, how do you manifest it? You know, what are you, it and how this life in these intense environments sort of, it magnifies so much of what it means Why, and then why things are a little bit, there's no nothing and I know, but you push yourself. life just a few months ago you know and and i you know i look back now and that was that's the

1:36:38 their boys and their gals and like you know in it in it connected feeling like you know our shit is And when we were up there in Everest, he kept on talking about teaching his son to serve others, pretty wild for him to ask at some point for a sighted person to trust a blind person on the He's a bad dude, man. violence and talking about chaotic environment around you just you barely hear the dude in your

1:39:07 thing where people are in these incredibly hostile dangerous scenarios and they want to go back W-E-I-H-E-N-M-A-Y-E-R. That's pulling up the top. is because I'm not afraid body awareness. And then, so he's born with a degenerative retina disease. as he got stationed in different places. I think this is all very hard for some people to process, Years.

1:42:11 it just says, oh, that blind guy can do it. Climb. fuck off at least you know a couple times a week. Right. Yeah, I think I saw him. Oh, on Denali? it's really slow and then you get on technical terrain you best lighten your load that when you're really moving, like on that kind of mountain, it's a slog. It's really slow. And then you get on technical terrain and you best lighten your load.

1:44:40 Yeah, yeah, for sure. I mean, I would have done it for free. And I was just a restless punk, you know, I was just super restless, getting in trouble all the time. No. I was good at both those things. And so I failed out and then I moved to Colorado in 1989 and moved to Boulder and was just a bunch of hippies. It's weird. Yeah. for 28 years and i um we're moving to evergreen uh we're moving to evergreen colorado which is a

1:47:58 That's it. tournament or something like that but we were driving up the West Side Highway and you see something very unique and special. and can't wait to get back to Lanai. deal and come back and then you know the trails are pretty pretty populated too you know yeah you The less people he wants to talk to. But do you think also that's around and you know sip on

1:50:13 And the landscape couldn't be prettier. No, that's way worse. I pulled up to Joe's house. I drove 365 days a year. because it's so hot they're canceling flights yeah you know yeah i mean i don't And everything's soft. and all the bitches just go down to their daisy dukes whoa you know like they're like I mean, he's a good person in general, Yeah. living turns out oh yeah i enjoy life and do you enjoy it more when you come back yeah yeah once

1:54:08 He's a little long-haired kid that's just trying to find his way, and I can relate. I think that's part of why I'm doing it. be grateful, like live, live a grateful life. And, and by living that, what does that mean? It's like, you know, pay it forward, show gratitude, show love, show compassion, um, and, and allow people to, Well, listen, man, thanks for doing this.

1:55:44 Yeah, it's not that bad.